Make sure it’s somewhere around the recommended temperature and you’ll be fine. This process requires a degree of temperature control, but from my own experience, I’d say it’s very flexible. After this, you give it a rinse and hang it up to dry! This simply removes any of the unexposed silver crystals, to stop them yellowing and damaging the negative. Once your stop is done, you then throw in a ‘Fixer’ chemical. After development, you have to ‘Stop’ the process, this can either be done with a special stop bath or with some water (I use the latter). The developer reacts with the exposed silver crystals on the film and creates the image you’ll eventually see on the negative. If you can get hold of a few different developers, run a few experiments and see which ones give you the best results. This isn’t essential though, as Ilford films will work perfectly well with another developer such as Kodak’s T-Max, and you’ll still get stunning results. As a general rule, I try and match the film and developer brands, for example, I shoot a lot of Ilford film, and so I use the Ilfotec LC-29 developer.

There are lots of different types of developer for B&W film out there, and they’re all easily available at a reasonable price. The process is also incredibly simple, so simple you can do it at home – and lots of people do! After the film has been exposed, you load it onto a spool and put it into a tank, then throw in your developer.

One of the nice things about Silver Gelatin films for B&W work is that they’re doing what they were designed to do, and they do a very good job at it. This mix of Silver and Gelatin is then painted onto the film back, which in most cases is made out of a material resembling plastic, although it can be anything. The ‘Traditional’ Black and White films you see are referred to as Silver Gelatin, the reason for this is fairly simple They’re made of tiny crystals of silver salts suspended in Gelatin. I know there are better kits than the Unicolour C41 from the FPP, but for a novice this is a good starter kit.So, you want to shoot some Black and White, but you’re not sure which type of film you should go for, ‘Traditional’ or C-41? Let’s have a look at the details of both, and see if we can make up our minds. I would use this product again in future. There is a handy video on the Film Photography Project you tube channel where Michael Raso walks us through the process that I found very helpful. As long as you keep air out of your chemicals you will get more than 8 films from this kit and extend your times as the chemicals begin to weaken through use. I bought a big plastic tub and some jugs from a local household goods store for not a lot of cash and the tub is where I store my gear after I have finished cleaning up afterwards. Apart from that stinky bit the process is very easy to follow and getting the developer and blix to working temperatures is easy with a sous vide and a water bath. Be Warned, Blix Stinks! I'm glad I heeded the safety advice and had a mask on and plenty of ventilation when mixing and using that particular stage in the process. Temperatures are in fahrenheit, but it's easy to convert to celcius with modern tech at our disposal. It's easy to use and does have an instruction leaflet that even I couldn't mess up. Analogue Wonderland had one of these in stock I decided to give it go. I wanted to try developing colour film as I have been developing my own B&W film for quite some time and was feeling confident enough to expand my skills. When you buy your camera film from us we can ship it across the UK, Europe, USA, New Zealand, Australia and Canada (more countries planned soon!) So buy your FPP C-41 Developing kit today and dive back into the fun of C-41 film photography! View more We are honoured to bring some of those films to the European market and hope you enjoy shooting them as much as Mike has making them! Not only that but Mike also runs the FPP store which sells a multitude of analogue film products all over the US and hand-rolls a fantastic selection of unique films. They are most famous within the global film community for their podcast (entering it's 10th year in existence) as well as the associated School Camera Donation Program whereby donations are sought and sorted to bring analogue photography back into high schools and colleges all over the country. Specification: Form:įPP is short-hand for the Film Photography Project: a US-based collection of projects headed up by the charismatic Mike Raso. Please note stabiliser is no longer included as modern emulsions rarely require this step. Just add water to the powder, and then follow the enclosed instructions to develop your C-41 films! Carefully crafted by our friends at FPP, this C-41 film developing powder pack will be able to process a minimum of 8 rolls (but up to 18 is possible with care).

C41 film